Panel to Purse in 6 Steps

So, as the post title suggests, we'll go through 6 steps in the process of turning an embroidered panel into a pouch. The first two steps are for finishing the panel itself. The next two will deal with the drawstring closure, and the final two will make the purse suitable for hanging from a belt and complete the finishing. It's a lot to cover, but I've purposefully selected very specific techniques within each step. It certainly won't be definitive, but it is my hope that you'll be able to reference this post as a springboard for your own projects. I, myself, found inspiration and help from a variety of other places around the internet for these techniques, and I'll be including lots of links to those places throughout.

A great place to start all this is the obligatory "what you'll need" list.

You won't need all this at once, but it's a good idea to assemble everything together to check your color scheme. Plus, then you'll know you've got everything.

Your finished panel (obviously ;))

• A lining material. If you keep scraps, there's a good chance you'll find something that works there. Mine is a piece of royal blue linen.
• A needle and thread. Pick a thread that will be easily hidden color-wise. You may need more than one color.
• Various decorative threads. I've got a selection of pearl cotton for the hand work I'll be doing and a crochet cotton for the weaving bits I'll do. Really review your colors here and give yourselves time to look at different combinations.
• Scissors (and thread snips on hand also for the handwork is a good idea)
• Tablets for weaving. I end up using 10, but you could use more or less depending on how wide your bag edges need to be. These cards are a bit bigger than I'd prefer to use, but they'll still work.
• Something on hand to beat the weaving. You won't need a shuttle- just something to make sure the weave looks good as you go.

I forgot to toss into the picture:

• A tape measure (I also use a sewing gauge for short measurements)
• Straight pins or some type of clip to keep things together
• Eyelet awl (or an equally sharp hole-making implement)
• Various other random implements to help along the process. I'll highlight those as we go.

Step One : Line your Panel

I've tried a few different methods for lining the inside of a bag, and while there isn't a single "best" solution,  attaching the lining to the panel first is an elegant option that takes care of it right off the bat so you don't have to worry about it later.

To start, you'll need to trim your panel down to a workable size. Begin by either measuring or counting threads away from your finished embroidered edge to a reasonable (but not too large) seam allowance. I counted 10 threads.

I snagged the 11th thread with my needle and pulled it out a bit. Depending on how you finished your cloth edges for completing the embroidery, you may be able to just pull to whole thread out. I had to cut mine first to get ends to pull on. Pull the entire thread out to create a line.

Use the line as a guide and cut a few threads beyond that (NOT on the side your embroidery is on.)

Then remove all the threads between your cut edge and the line.

This creates a bit of leeway on the edge of your cloth to maintain your seam allowance as you work it. If you simply cut along your line, there's a chance you'll lose some threads within your allowance, making it narrower, and harder to work with.

Repeat on all sides.

Then cut your lining to match.

Make sure your lining and panel are wrong sides together, if it matters for your lining.

Place a large pin in the center to hold the panel and lining together. I've got a bunch of long flower head pins which are perfect for this. A long safety pin would work too.

Focus on the centers of each edge and fold the cloth edges inward. Use a pin to secure.

Don't worry about perfection yet. Just get the four sides nicely aligned and flattened together. Your main task here is to just make sure you reduce wrinkles because either the lining or the panel is larger than the other.

Pins will work just fine for the next stage, but a tool that will not bend the pieces would work better. Sabine from Three Gold Bees used paper clips for this step on her alms purse. I had the same type of clips, but only enough for one side at a time. You may even try sewing clips or similar.

I left the pins on the other sides, and worked the cloth edges in on the first edge, using the paper clips to secure them in place. This is where I started getting more serious about perfection, but not too caught up in it.

You will be able to adjust the folded in edges as you go along with the stitching.

Secure your thread and begin discretely stitching the two sides to attach the two pieces together.

Try to grab just the very edges of the two panels, as close to the embroidery as possible. Try NOT to grab the actual embroidery thread as you do this. You could really mess up the edges of the embroidery that way.

Ideally, you want to get the lining and the embroidery to meet in the middle. That's not always possible, especially on the ends where you'll have some bulk. Attempt to keep any gap, where the embroidery ground cloth shows, under 3mm wide.

Challenge yourself to keep your corners nice and pointy. It'll really help later on.

Step two: Finish the top edges

 There are several ways to go about getting all the edges finished, but for this purse, I'll just need to start with finishing the top edges, where the purse will be opened. To do that, I like the two-stand loop method.

I have used this method in the past, but since there are already several good tutorials out there, I don't see a need to how-to it myself. You can see how Isis does it over on Medieval Silkworks, how Cathrin does it on her Katafalk blog, and how Crafty Agatha does it in her video.

I'm using two colors (ecru and gray to match my embroidery), but you can certainly do it with a single color. (I used just black here, for instance.) This is a good opportunity to really effect the look of the pouch.

Step Three : Create the Drawstrings

There are at least three methods I can think of off the top of my head that we could use to create the drawstring. For the length I need, though, I think a flat finger loop braid of 5 strands will work nicely. (One day I'd like to try a tubular inkle cord, but that's kind of overkill here.)

Begin by measuring the width of your panel. Multiply by 2. Add .375" (to account for the width of the edges.) This gives you an approximation of the total distance around your pouch. Add 2" to this measurement for that mysterious "extra" we always somehow need.

The drawstring we'll create is actually two strands that will be worked around the purse in opposite directions. We create a single strand, then cut it in half. So take the length the math above gave, multiply it by 2, then add another 1/3rd of that total. That extra 1/3rd will give you what's needed for shrinkage during the braiding process. Then round up to the nearest number that sounds good to you. I ended up at with 36".

[Full disclosure: I did this next bit and discovered that I'd forgotten to add the extra 1/3rd. It was too short. I ended up switching colors for the correct length version, so that's why the colors below don't match the colors in the materials photo above. So trust me when I say you need that extra!]

When I measure out my loops, I just swing the thread back an forth as many times as I need, creating loops on both ends. I use those loops with an extra tether for securing the braid if I'm working by myself.

You need a sturdy object to secure your braid. I'm using our baby gate. A heavy piece of furniture, a door knob, or a hook on the wall would all work.

I wasn't able to photograph me actually making the braid because no one was available to take the photos while my hands were occupied, but here are some resources for making finger loop braids:

Learn about the ins and outs of finger loop braiding from Ingrid on her site Loop Braiding.

Here you can see the actual period instructions for "a brode lace of v bowes" at Fingerloop.org.

All said and done, here's my braid.

I did actually use two shades of tan. The result enhances the luster of the pearl cotton which works very well with the gold on the panel.

We're going to put the braid aside for now.

Step Four : Create Eyelets

This was the point in the day were I was getting pretty tired. I took only a few photos, and I'm a little less than thrilled about how the eyelets turned out. But let's just accept and move on, shall we?

You can either measure or eyeball it, but anyway you go, you'll want at least 4 holes at the top of your pouch. Wider pouches don't necessarily need more eyelets, though. Crinkle up your panel and try to envision each if the areas where the drawstring will pass through. Just make sure you stick with an even number.

Using your awl, carefully insert the point into an area between your stitches and gently push through. You want to try to take advantage of an expanded hole where threads have alreàdy passed through if you can.

Once you get through the top, push the awl through to create a hole that goes all the way through.

Make it big. It will close on you as you work.

[Aside: As an alternative, you could try doing this whole step BEFORE you attach the lining. You would then need to slip your drawstring between the panel and the lining. Aesthetically, this is probably better. Functionally, however, you may discover that the lining starts acting on its own. I think I'll experiment with this on my next pouch.]

I didn't photograph the actual act of sewing the eyelets, but I used a simple, tight whip stitch.

You can see in this photo why I a) probably should have stopped for the night, and b) wonder if keeping the lining intact would function correctly. Anyway. I eyeballed the placement on the other side from the completed side, and repeated the steps again.

Step Five: Tablet Weave the bag together.

You'll also need a tape measure. And I accidentally put the wrong color thread in this photo- you'll want to either match your weaving thread, or use your weaving thread if it's on the thin side.

This is the most complex step, but the result is worth the effort. You could, instead, use the two-loop method above for this step, and I've done that in the past quite successfully, but there is a pretty sufficient gap to cover, and the width of a woven band is a good fit. Optionally, you could weave your band separately and stitch it on if you're not able to set up what I'll be showing (or you'd just as soon not go yo that length.) I won't judge :)

I was first introduced to the concept of applying a tablet woven band directly to a piece from a short section on the process in The Museum of London's Textiles & Clothing 1150 - 1450 AD.

There are a handful of other places around the internet where you can see this technique put into practice on a variety of items. Catherin used it to finish the edges of a hood. Tristan from Taschen used it to complete one of his pouches. Brígiða Vadesbana used it on a leather pouch. Sarah from A Most Peculiar Mademoiselle applied it to one of her husband's cotes.

Like the drawstring, the process starts with a bit of math. Tablet weaving on average will have 1 foot of waste taken up at the ends of the band, and no less than 1/3rd of the length taken up by the twist in the weave itself.

I want to be able to use a lark's head knot to hang the pouch from a belt, so I will use the woven edge as a band for several inches before securing it back down on the other edge of the pouch. I'm just eyeballing this length- I don't have a magical formula here. Make sure you note how long your hanging string should be. Keep in mind that larger purses will need a longer length here, and may benefit aesthetically to hanging lower anyway.

If you have two panels, you have a few options. You can use to two-loop method to secure the bottoms together, then proceed as I am.* You can start you weave on a bottom corner, work the bottom, then go up, around and back down to meet it. You could attach the bottoms together with the tablet weaving! then start again the way I'm going to do it. You could experiment and do something altogether different!

* [Aside: Here's an idea- use the two-loop method to attach the two panels together at the bottom before attaching the lining. Then use a single piece of fabric as your lining. The inside bottom will be a nice, smooth fold rather than a seam.]

Here's my math: 30" for total finished length + 12" for waste + 10" for the weave's "take up" = 52" and since I like to have more than I need, I'm going to round that up to a full 60", just to be totally safe.

I've got 10 tablets with 4 holes each (yes there are only 4 cards in this picture), but I'm only going to use holes A and C for a total of 20 strands. That seems like a lot, but I've got to cover a 1/4" span between the two sides of the purse. If you're using thinner or thicker threads than I am, your number will be different. Some experiments on shorter lengths will help with that determination.

We'll begin by locating a suitable place to work. You will need somewhere you can measure out your threads. A long bit of floor can work, but I also like Cathrin's suggestion of using the knobs on a dresser. I decided to go ahead and set up where I planned to weave. I used the baby gate as one end and positioned a chair to give me the 60".

To prevent the warp from sliding around on the anchored end, I used a piece of thread and just tied the warp together.

While everything is all stretched out, it's a good idea to get the tablets into place.

I cut the ends that had gone around the chair. I inserted the top threads into the A holes and the bottom threads in the C holes.

It's important to take your time here and do each card in order, carefully laying them all together the same way. There's all sorts of variables you can use here-anything you can do with regular tablet weaving is pretty much fair game. If you're more familiar with tablet weaving than I am, I totally encourage you to go wild here :)

Gather up your cards and secure them. I'm using a large safety pin, but a rubber band around the stack would work too.

Secure the open end with a knot.

You will act as the tensioning rod for the weaving process. Opt for a chair on casters. As you weave, you will get increasingly closer to the fixed end, and being able to easily shift forward will really help.

You will need to secure the strands to yourself. I'm using some ribbon. I slid it through the strands, and tied it around my waist. This is only necessary for the first bit. After you get a bit into the weaving, you can switch to a safety pin.

The first few stages can be a bit awkward. Using your threaded needle, secure the bottom corner of the pouch to the end of the threads. It's OK to leave some extra space here at the end (between where you secure the bag on and the knot).

Grab a bit of the pouch.

Turn your cards, pass the needle through the shed, and stitch a bit on the other side. Turn the cards and repeat.

If you need to, use something to really beat the weave down. The bag can kind of get in the way of the cards for this.

Be sure to secure the end of the side well when you reach it.

At this point, you can trade the ribbon for a safety pin secured directly to yourself. I'm using the sturdiness of my wasteband.

For the hanging strap, I'm going to create a tubular band. To do this, you simply insert your needle into the she'd from the same direction every time. This turns the flat strap into a tube.

Continue to shift the pin along, moving your chair closer as needed, to keep the weaving at a comfortable distance, and maintain tension.

When you're reached the length you noted previously, stitch the weaving back to the top corner of the other side of the bag. Then switch back to the first method, securing the weaving along the other side.

Step Six: Finish the Bag

We're in the final stretch! We've got a bag now, and you can attach it to your belt. The last few things we will do are to finish up some of the loose ends and insert the drawstrings.

Before going into the drawstring, take the time to get the bag cleaned up. If you have any loose threads from the weaving process, knot them up, sew them in and snip them off. Re-work the extra threads in the corners into tight knots as close to the bag as you can get them. Cut the leftover threads to the same length creating faux tassels. (I definitely have plans to do a tassel tutorial in the future, but not for this bag.) You can try combing out the threads to fill them out a bit, but that will depend entirely on the thread you used. I'm not going to do that with the crochet cotton I used.

Once you've got all those bits taken care of, you should be looking at a complete bag that's just missing the drawstring.

First, inspect your drawstring and reposition the two end knots as needed to remove any poor braiding from the ends. Then, fold your drawstring in half and cut it.

Using a bit of low-tack tape, secure the ends like a shoe string. Try to make this as small and tight as you can.

Use your awl (or whatever you've got) to reopen the holes as much as you can. You will need to do that often, so keep that tool close at hand.

Pay attention to the way you thread the string. Everywhere your string goes along the inside, that portion of the bag will be what bumps out when it's pulled closed. In order for the two-string method to work, you need the strings to be coming from the back on all of the holes near the edges.

When you get to the end of the first side, wrap it around the edge and continue on the other side.

You'll have at this point a perfectly passable single drawstring.

 

Careful to move the string away as you work, repeat the process again with the other string, going in the opposite direction. Be patient and get those eyelets as big as you can to help you out here. It's also a good idea to make sure that none of the strings get twisted as they go around the pouch.

When you get the other string in place, grab the two strings coming from each side and pull. You may get some resistance at the start, but eventually, the two strings will slide against each other to bring their middles together, closing the purse.

Finish up by removing the tap and knotting those two ends. Cut down the other two ends to match.

Congratulations!

You now have a finished drawstring pouch that can be easily hung from your belt (or a tree)!

I took a bunch more photos of the finished pouch, you can view those on my Flickr page or on Facebook. Thanks for getting to the end of this tutorial, and good luck with your panel to pouch projects!