References

In order to gain a deeper understanding of late medieval French, Flemish and English women's clothing, and the social culture in which that clothing existed, I have read many books, essays and articles. I've been able to get great information out of some, and very little out of others, but I think it's important to keep a bibliography of anything I read that fits within the subject- helpful or not!  

Below is my current bibliography. Those with bold author names are items I highly recommend. The red notes within brackets [] are my personal notes about the title.
  1. Beaudry, M.C., Findings: the Material Culture of Needlework and Sewing, (London, Yale University, 2006). [This book was useful to me to determine the composition and availability of sewing supplies (needles, scissors, etc.) in the medieval period, but in general, "medieval" findings are somewhat lumped together shortly after a brief introduction of ancient materials.  A close, careful read is necessary to determine what might be relevant.]
  2. Brunello, F., The Art of Dying in the History of Mankind (Vicenza, Officine Grafiche Sta, 1968).
  3. Burkholder, K.M., “Threads Bared: Dress and Textiles in Late Medieval English Wills,” Medieval Clothing and Textiles, Volume 1, (Woodbridge: The Boydell Press, 2005). [I highly recommend this article because it's an eye-opener about how clothing passes from one person to another even if sumptuary laws dictated that the receiver couldn't wear or use it in public. After reading this I had a better understanding of how medieval people valued clothing monetarily with no regard for style, completely contrary to attitudes toward clothing value in the modern world.]
  4. Crowfoot, E, et al, “Textiles and Clothing c. 1150-c.1450,” Museum of London: Medieval Finds from Excavations in London: 4 (London, HMSO, 1992). [I recommend this title primarily because it is very heavily referenced in both the professional and recreational environments.  I feel it's critical, however, to remember that extant pieces only offer proof that one person created one garment at one time in one location, and that the items cataloged in this book should not be used as blanket proof for all medieval costume study.]
  5. Cunnington, C.W. & Cunnington, P.E., The History of Underclothes, (Mineola, Courier Dover Publications, 1992).
  6. Cunnington, P. & Lucas, C., Occupational Costume in England, (New York, Barnes & Noble, Inc., 1967). [Both this and the above book are general histories, but do have enough medieval information to back up other sources.]
  7. Dahl, C.L and Sturtewagen, I., “The Cap of Saint Birgitta.” Medieval Clothing and Textiles, Volume 4 (Woodbridge, The Boydell Press, 2008). [I recommend this article for one very important reason- the researchers were not content to accept past researchers conclusions, and have successfully made a case for a completely different perspective on this extant item.  It's a triumph in terms of showing that careful, critical study can bring about new conclusions.  Also, the SBC is something you should know about ;)]
  8. Dyer, C., Standards of Living in the Later Middle Ages: Social Change in England c. 1200-1520, (Cambridge, Cambridge University Press, 1989). [I pulled a huge amount of economic information from this title.  It's a bit on the dry side, and deals a lot with numbers, but if you'd like to know more about how society was organized by BOTH class and income, this is a great source.]
  9. Eastwood, K., Women and Girls in the Middle Ages, (New York, Crabtree Publishing Company, 2004). [This is a children's book, but I did find it useful in helping me come up with a term for a the lower end of middle class woman.  They called them "townswomen", and I think that's a great descriptor.  Other than that, however, there's not much here for research.]
  10. Gathercole, P.M., The Depiction of Clothing in French Medieval Manuscripts, (New York, The Edwin Mellen Press, 2008). [This book was a huge disappointment for me. I was hoping for a critical & editorial analysis of the topic, but it's really just a collection of brief descriptions on clothing items found in manuscripts.  With no sources other than the manuscripts (which aren't pictured with the text) quoted in the body of the text, it's pretty useless.  The best thing I got from it was the list of manuscript collections she looked at listed at the end.]
  11. Heller, S.G., “Limiting Yardage and Changes of Clothes: Sumptuary Legislation in Thirteenth-Century France, Languedoc, and Italy,” Medieval Fabrications: Dress, Textiles, Cloth Work, and Other Cultural Imaginings (New York, Palgrave Macmillan, 2004).
  12. Houston, M.G., Medieval Costume in England and France: The 13th, 14th and 15th Centuries, (Toronto, General Publishing Company, Ltd., 1996). [I found the information in this book to be out-dated for my research. Others have cited it, however, so it might be worth a read.]
  13. Hunt, A., Governance of the Consuming Passions; A History of Sumptuary Law, (New York, St. Martin Press, 1996). [This one is great for gaining a better understanding of how sumptuary laws worked and what they controlled. This is especially helpful if you're trying to ascertain what's appropriate for a specific class of person.]
  14. Hunt, E.S and Murray, J.M., A History of Business in Medieval Europe, 1200-1550 (Cambridge, Cambridge University Press, 1999).
  15. Izbicki, T.M., "Pyres of Vanities: Mendicant Preaching on the Vanity of Women and Its Lay Audience", De Ore Domini: preacher and word in the Middle Ages, (Kalamazoo, Medieval Institute Publications, 1989).
  16. James, C., et al, Old Master Prints and Drawings: A Guide to Preservation and Conservation, (Amsterdam, Amsterdam University Press, 1997). [I used this specifically for a citation to support the use of chalk in medieval tailoring.]
  17. Krueger, R., "'Nouvelles Choses'; Social Instability and the Problem of Fashion in The Livre Du Chevalier De La Tour Landry, The Menagier De Paris, and Christine De Pizan's Livre Des Trois Vertus", Medieval Conduct, (Minneapolis, The University of Minnesota Press, 2001). [You should have at least a basic understanding of the medieval texts listed in the title for this one. It is a critical analysis that acts as both translation and interpretation, and covers the same wide range of topics as the original texts themselves.]
  18. Munro, J.H., “The Anti-Red Shift- To the Dark Side; Colour Changes in Flemish Luxury Woollens, 1300-1550,” Medieval Clothing and Textiles, Volume 3 (Woodbridge, The Boydell Press, 2007). [This is a great source for understanding what cloth was considered luxury cloth (both in color and in finish) in the period listed. Helpful for determining if that piece of wool you've been eying is appropriate for your persona.]
  19. Netherton, R., “The View from Herjolfsnes: Greenland’s Translation of the European Fitted Fashion,” Medieval Clothing and Textiles, Volume 4 (Woodbridge, The Boydell Press, 2008). [This article was a "game-changer" for many re-creationists, and explains why the Herjolfsnes garments can't be used as extant proof of clothing on the mainland. This is a must read if you study 14th and 15th century women's clothing.]
  20. Newman, P.B.Daily Life in the Middle Ages (North Carolina: McFarland & Company, Inc., 1961). [Though this book covers a huge range of topics, it does so with expert attention. The information is good, and much of it can be supported by other, more scholarly sources.]
  21. Newton, S.M., Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince: A study of the years 1340-1365, (Woodbridge, Boydell Press, 1980).
  22. Oakes, A. and Hill, M.H., Rural Costume; Its Origin and Development in Western Europe and the British Isles, (New York, Van Nostrand Reinhold Company, 1970).
  23. Oldland, J., “The Finishing of English Woollens, 1300-1550,” Medieval Clothing and Textiles, Volume 3 (Woodbridge, The Boydell Press, 2007). [If you're looking for an in-depth study of how wool was manufactured, finished and sold in the 14th and 15th centuries, this is a good place to look.]
  24. Plümacher, M, “Color Perception, Color Description, and Metaphor,” Speaking of Colors and Odors, (Philadelphia, John Benjamins Publishing Co., 2007).[I used this and Brunello book above to help me pin-point Flemish black dye in the medieval period. I limited my focus in both books on that topic, so I can't speak about them beyond that.]
  25. Power, E. (translation), The Goodman of Paris: A Treatise on Moral and Domestic Economy by a Citizen of Paris, c. 1393, (Woodbridge, The Boydell Press, 1928). [This is a period text that focuses very directly on the life a 14th century middle class housewife was to lead, and provides an invaluable perspective from the point of view of her husband.]
  26. Schaus, M. (Ed.), Women and Gender in Medieval Europe; an Encyclopedia, (New York, Routledge, 2006).
  27. Scott, M., Medieval Dress & Fashion, (London, The British Library, 2007).
  28. Scott, M., A Visual History of Costume: The Fourteenth & Fifteenth Centuries, (London, B.T. Batsford, Ltd., 1986). [I highly recommend this and the previous book my Ms. Scott.  I have learned a great deal about terminology and chronology of late medieval garments through these books.  I primarily use her terms now because I have such a clear understanding of what she took them to mean. She has also been a wonderful source for establishing the pace at which fashions transitioned.]
  29. Verdier, P., “Women in the Marginalia of Gothic Manuscripts and Related Works,” The Role of Women in the Middle Ages (Albany, SUNY Press, 1975). [I was able to learn a bit more about the role of women in the medieval household through this book.  It's one of those oddballs that actually gave great citations about topics beyond what the title suggests.]

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