Sunday, June 23, 2013

In Progress: Frilled Hood- Assembly, part 2

After fiddling around with the frills and veil, I decided that I really did need to go back and adjust that center seam one more time. I primarily needed to change the curve at the base of the head to help the collar go where it needed to without too much bunching.

Since I was making that change anyway, I made an additional adjustment on the top curve as well. I don't know if I actually made it better, but I was able to get a better match to my original pattern by straightening the curve a bit more.

I also changed my mind about how to affix the frills. My original idea would have created a lot of gathering that I would need to tame, so I decided to go a different route by trimming the excess off the collar and the front, leaving just enough to fold under.


To get the frills ready, and to help the raw-edged side stay together, I ran a running stitch down the whole length about 1.5" from the front edge.


Then, starting with the collar edge of the main veil (since that long curve makes it the more difficult edge), I pinned the frill to the folded edge.


The stitches (overcast) create a nice, sturdy edge between the main piece and the frills.


I completed the same step on the front frill. Then I grabbed the piece I cut off of the collar to use as the binding on the back side. First, I folded one edge, pinned it into place, and used the overcast stitch again to secure it.


At the ends, the binding hung off (since it was cut from a wider portion of the collar).


So I trimmed that flush with the frills. You can see below that the main piece didn't end up an exact match, but that was fine, since it offered an edge binding, which I'd do later.


I folded the binding over the raw edge of the frills, and tucked it between that and the main piece.


I planned to use an invisible hem stitch to secure the binding edge down, but that wasn't working out on the linen- it wasn't invisible at all and it actually highlighted the thicker band considerably. So I opted to use a straight stitch, since that blended in much better. The piece I trimmed off the front edge was the binding for the front frill.


After the binding was stitched down, I folded in the ends to make sure that no raw edges stuck out. Not perfect. I ended up with an odd fold, but it actually worked out well, so the fold doesn't really bother me.


So now the frilled hood is complete, but it's not yet done. A few days before Simple Day, I'll go through the starching process to bulk up and shape the frills for wearing. For now it's a bit flat.

I look tired. Too many late nights sewing silly headdresses, I think.

While I'm waiting to do that, I've got some sewing odds and ends to catch up on, starting with making some adjustments to the blue linen dress and finishing those seams.

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