Sunday, June 16, 2013

In Progress: Frilled Hood- Assembly, part 1

After showing my husband the design I wanted to embroider onto his new tunic, he let me off the hook. While I'm still going to work on it, if it isn't complete by Simple Day, he's okay with that. Which frees me up to getting my frilled hood completed in time!

I thought I'd start this post by sharing a photo progression of how I went about pleating the frilled lengths. I know that box pleating isn't really that special, but someone out there might not know how to do it, so for their benefit, this is what I did for each pleat:

1) After hand-creasing the 4" wide strips in half, and getting my half pleat set at the end, I used my measuring tape to mark three sections of 1.5" using pins. In this photo, I've already been pleating, so the first measurement is based off the edge of the previous pleat.

2) Using the linen's grain as a guide to make sure I wasn't too crooked, I made a hand-crease at the first and second pins.

3) Which looked like this. (Now upside down from the first photo.)

4) Using the assistance of the first crease, I fold the first 1.5" section in half, lining the crease and pin up against the previous pleat. Once in place (and even on the front folded edge as well as the back, raw edge), I pinned both edges down.

5) Then using the second crease, I did the same thing on the other side of the middle 1.5", this time lining the last, uncreased pin up to the edge of the pleat.

6) Pinned down on that side, and I have a finished pleat!

As I mentioned in my previous post, I'm using a heavier weight linen for the main veil than what I used on the body, so that the hood shape doesn't warp because it can't stand up to the weight of the frills. In order to determine how heavy the frills would be, however, I needed to remove at least the pins on the front edges. So I went ahead and stitched the pleated folds together at the front edge.

The linen I chose for the main body is a medium weight linen with a fine weave and a great drape. I laid my pattern out onto it (two layers) and added about 2" to the front and collar for securing the frills.

I used a small running stitch to secure the two pieces along the back seam, then secured the seam allowances down. Unfortunately, after I got all that done, I wasn't quite thrilled with the shape/wrinkling I was getting at the very back. The photo below is all I managed to get, and it's not quite a full profile. The major problem is still visible, though- the sagging wrinkle about halfway down the back of my head.

So, I undid all that, adjusted the curve, then re-sewed it.

The second time around, I had more wrinkles at the top, but in general, it looked better. Most of the wrinkling you see here is actually caused by the wrinkling of my old 15-minute Saint Birgitta's Cap. If I switch to my better, newest huvet, I can probably smooth them mostly out and use pins to secure, so I'm just going to have to be comfortable with that, since I can't waste the time and thread to try a 3rd time. I am even more convinced now that the "veil" was not constructed this way in period, but until a bit of evidence that suggests otherwise comes into my radar, it's going to have to suffice.

I also finished the edges of the front shoulders, between the two frill edges. I used blanket stitch to secure the tight corner, where there wasn't enough to do any type of folded or rolled hem. It doesn't photograph too well because it blends in, but that's kind of the point. Here's the outside:

And here's the backside:

The extra fabric on the remaining edges will become the encasing band for the frills. Which comes next.

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