Wednesday, January 1, 2014

Setting a Gore with Elizabethan Seams

So, I'm stitching along on my orange linen kirtle, using the Elizabethan seam technique, when it occurs to me that my gores do not come to a convenient sharp point in order to follow the rules of the seam style. So here's how I handled it:

I located the center point of my gore tip and pinned one edge into place so that the gore came edge-to-edge with the panel around an inch down. You can see that I already have the top center seam sew down to the insertion point.

Since I was using my needle to keep that point, I just continued the stitch by grabbing the panel edge (at nearly the same point as I would have regularly stitched.) Right after I took this picture, I reoriented the needle on the gore to be perpendicular to how I have it here.

The first inch of stitches are like hem stitches. Then I they become overcast stitches when the edges meet back up.

From there, I stitched along for a bit to establish the seam. Then I left that thread in place to come back to when I was ready to sew the rest of the seam.

Back at the top, I started a new thread a stitch or two above the insertion point, the I opened the gore seam I just stitched up.

Then I flipped everything over. The middle seam in the photo is what I just sewed.

Then I pulled the other panel to the gore edge, matching the point where the edges come together to what I'd done on the other side.

And with the new thread, stitched from the point down using a hem stitch, mirroring what I had done on the other side.

And I have a nice point to my gore without losing the Elizabethan seam for more than an inch on either side.

After completing the seams on both sides, I have a nicely placed gore!

I wish all of you a Happy New Year and the best of luck with all your endeavors in 2014!

UPDATE May 30, 2016:

A request was made in the comments to include some pictures of the inside for more clarity. They are below. This dress has been around the block a few times, so it looks a little different from multiple wearing and washings, but hopefully this helps!


  1. I've been looking and looking at this, off and on, since you first posted it, but I'm still not seeing which piece of fabric is which. If it's not too much of a bother, would you please add an image or two of the inside of this gore, now that it's sewn? I think if I saw it finished, the steps you've explained so thoroughly will make more sense to me. Thanks so much for this tutorial!

    1. I've added two new photos at the bottom of the post of the inside of the gore. Hope that helps!