Sunday, December 1, 2013

In Progress: Blue Wool Fitted Gown, part II

I had to put fitting my new blue wool dress a hold for a few days, since I needed a bit of assistance to get the back fit, and my mom was away visiting family for a few days for Thanksgiving. So today with her back home, I could get back on track to have this dress complete for Christmas Toy Tourney this weekend.

When we last left off with this project, I had the basic shapes of a 7-panel gown sewn together to do an initial try-on. It fit very loosely, but I was able to easily identify where and by how much I needed to tailor the fit.

I started by adjusting the shoulder angle by pulling the seam upward to make the panels straight, then pinned along the angle of my shoulders. Then I chalked lines for the armholes and neck holes. I cut the armholes a bit bigger than intended, but not so large that I'd created an issue. Then I had mom do an initial pinned fitting. There were still several wrinkled areas that we took care of after my daughter snapped this photo:

My son also wanted to take a photo, but I'd already taken the gown off. Which means I finally now have a photo of my linen short cote to show you!

So after basting it, which definitely makes it neater, I had a reasonable fit.

There was still shaping to be done around the bust, and I also made some angle adjusting to make the line of fitted bodice flow properly into the skirt. I did not get any photos of those adjustments, though. Looking at the photo of my back, I can see that I also need to ease the curves in the back side seams to stop the cutting-in effect at my mid-back, and to even them out side-to-side.

Now I'll be marking all the seams and taking the whole thing apart to sew with the seam allowance inside. That will give me the chance to iron the prominent creases from when it was stored, and to be more intentional about sewing the long straight seams on the skirt to prevent the puckering.

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