Sunday, September 13, 2009

13th - 14th C. Barbette

As promised, here's the how-to for the 13th-14th century barbette to go with the frilled fillet. Blogger won't enlarge this one, so hopefully you can see the pictures well enough to get the jist.

Step 1: You may want to make a pattern instead of cutting directly in to your linen. To create the pattern, cut one end with a width of roughly 5" when measured straight across, but with a slight arch. This will become the center, so the curve is to conform to the curve of your head.

Step 2: Measure your head thusly- starting at the top center of your head (back just in front of your crown) measure down around your chin, back up the other side, over the centerpoint to where the fillet will end up sitting. Add about 1" for seam allowance (.5" at top and .5" at bottom). Use this measurement to find your total length. The whole length of the front edge can be straight. For the back edge, cut a long, shallow curve in until the cut reaches a width of about 2" from the front edge.

Step 3: Take your linen and double it up. Lay your pattern out and cut our the barbette, adding a 1/4" seam allowance all the way around.

Step 4: Measure your head again thusly: starting at the top center (same as before), measure down around your chin (going the opposite direction you did before) and back up the other side to where the fillet will end up sitting. Use this measurement to shorten one end of the barbette. This will allow you to overlap the two ends without adding an having to cross them.

Step 5: Sew the top together, maintaining the curve and a 1/2" seam allowance.

Step 6: Fold over the seam allowance, and stitch down. I did this by hand to avoid puckering issues due to the curve of the seam.

Step 7: Hem both edges. I did this part with the machine to save time. If you hand sew it, you can do a better job of hiding the stitching. If you do it on machine, choose the smallest stitch length your machine will do.

Step 8: Fold in the ends and stitch down.

Step 9: Remove all pins and marvel at how incredibly easy that was.

As I mentioned before, this is actually for my mom, but I wanted to show you what the finished look is. This style works with any 13th or 14th century dress.