I've always liked the dresses featured in Tres Riches Heures du Duc de Berry, specifically the blue brocade dress from April and the black dress from August (above). I love the graceful look of the April dress, and the contrast of the blue against the gold kirtle, but the long open sleeves are impractical, both for my persona and for me wearing it at events. I love the simplicity of the August dress, but it's almost too plain. The black dress has long sleeves that have been pushed up to expose the red kirtle, and while that's a look I don't mind, it's a bit too informal for my one and only silk dress. So the compromise seems to be something halfway between- like the red dress from the Bible historiale (above). The red dress has the same simple lines of the black dress, but the formal open sleeves- almost like tippets- mimic the blue dresses' without being impractical.
I had planned to do a claret-colored gown to go over my teal wool (the color above is only a representation- the real thing isn't quite so deep a teal), so I think the silk gown will be it. I found a pretty copper-toned silk shantung that I can get for $10/yard. I think the grayish-green/white linen I found for $9.50/yard would be a nice lining that I'll extend to show on the edges (just like the red dress).
To go with it, the horn and veil style headdress is the way to go (like the one worn by the black-dress lady.) I don't already have one, but I do have a very fine, lightweight linen I can use to make it.