Sunday, April 24, 2016

On My Worktable

Silk Clothing, Tacuinum Sanitatis, 15th century (BNF Latin 9333), fol 104r
I'm somewhat between projects at the moment. My new supportive chemise pattern is ready, but I'm hesitant to use the mid-weight linen I originally intended to use instead of a heavier weight linen, which I would need to purchase. I'm waffling here because I want to move forward with this project to be able to make the next item, but funds are needed elsewhere at the moment, so it may be a while before I can acquire different linen. The lure of instant gratification is quite strong.

Sunday, April 17, 2016

In Progress: Supportive Chemise - Fitting Comparisons

Note: If you've been waiting for this series to get less awkward, that time has come.

Last time I checked in, I was very nearly to the end of this pattern fitting. All that was left to do was to readjust the underbust to create a supportive band that would be impossible for me to remove without an opening.

In the process of doing that, I felt like I was fighting my lacing more than the pattern. I believe the biggest issue was that the holes in my tried-and-true lacing strips are too far apart for the needs of this garment. This resulted in a gap at the underbust with EVERY adjustment. I knew that the pattern fit with the seams sewn shut, so I poked around in my stash and located a zipper. I know several other costumers who have also used zippers, so I figured it was worth a try.

I also decided that I wanted to try that zipper on the side, rather than the front. I really liked the smoothness that the front had with that seam sewn shut, and since I only need to have the area of the underbust band open in order to get it on and off, I can place a laced section on the side for that, and it would be infinitely better than trying to do that on the front seam.

Sunday, April 3, 2016

In Progress: Supportive Chemise - Nearing the End

Note: If you know me personally and/or may be adversely affected by the direct and open way I need to address the topic of my breasts and their shape in this project, I suggest you turn back now. I'll post a similar notice when I believe the project has progressed enough that it might not be as awkward. 

During the last fitting, I identified that I needed to significantly reduce the underbust, while at the same time keeping the front panels wide enough to overlap properly at the center lacing, and not gap at the wide point of my bust. I also didn't want the belly circumference to be reduced and facilitate riding up.