Sunday, April 21, 2013

Project Complete: Canvas Pilgrim Bag #2

A late medieval "pilgrim bag" for myself.

What it is:
For my pilgrim bag, I wanted to go with a more distinctive and essentially 15th century look, rather than the simpler style of my husband's bag. My bag is also smaller, but it's ideally sized to hold the items I normally carried around in a basket. It is entirely hand sewn with a hand-spun linen thread, and is made of a butter cream-colored, 12.5 oz hemp canvas, and lined with an off white linen with a stripe pattern in the weave.

How I made it:
In general terms of construction, the lining on my bag included an extra and slightly changed technique than the first bag, but I used the same types of stitches. My bag consists of 3 pieces and the strap, with linings on the interior of the bag and the back of the flap.

Since I wanted to use the Elizabethan seam again, I was able to add the lining and deal with the seam allowances at the same time. I wanted the bottom of the bag to have some double curve shaping, so I layered the front and back pieces (both the canvas and linen), folded them in half, and cut out a curve from the fold.

Then I quickly straight-stitched each of the panels, to attach the lining and canvas together, leaving a gap to turn in inside out. I clipped the corners and curves to get the best results when I turned it right-side out. I then stitched another run of straight-stitch around to secure the two layers. In this way, I already took care of the seam allowances, and could proceed with whip stitching the panels together.

The flap, which I also shaped, was completed the same way, except that I used an overcast stitch on the edge to finish it, rather than a running stitch.

After I put it together, I decided that the strap was just a little too long. I unstitched one end of the strap and shortened it also about 2". This corrected it perfectly.

What I think of it:
Once again, I'm jazzed to have another really nice, hand-made piece under my belt. I like the bag, and that I was able to introduce some stylization without too much thought. I think the butt curves are sexy. :) I questioned as I worked on it whether I wanted to just but my Evergreen award on it (and where to put it), but I like the statement it makes. I left the other curve free for a pewter badge I've got my eyes on. I'm reserving judgement on how well it works out for me until I get to actually take it to an event, but it fits my embroidery frame perfectly- just as intended.

You can see all the photos from this project in the Flickr set, or on Facebook!

Sunday, April 7, 2013

Project Complete: Canvas Pilgrim Bag #1

A shoulder bag, typically referred to as a "pilgrim bag", seen in manuscripts throughout the medieval period, used by traveling pilgrim's as a type of carry-all.

What it is:
With a need for my husband to be more mobile at events and still keep important officer-related materials on-hand, a large shoulder bag provided a nice solution. This bag has no particular relevance to any period, and is styled in a very period-neutral manner. Pilgrim bags as depicted in period images are often colored, and are usually thought to have primarily been made of leather. SCA versions, however, often employ heavy-duty fabrics. We chose a drab-colored hemp linen canvas, which will hold up well to use, and will be easy to clean as needed.

How I made it:
The majority of the steps I took can be found in my previous post. The bag is entirely hand sewn using 100% hand-spun linen thread which I manually waxed with beeswax. I used a variety of hand-sewing stitch types, which makes the piece something of a sampler.

The sack itself is stitched on each side using the Elizabethan seam technique. It's a great seam technique and is extremely strong.

I used running stitches on seam allowances, and hem stitches to attach the strap and pockets, as well as tack the corners down on the inside.

I had to reconstruct the strap after getting the bag done, since it turned out that the seam where two pieces were attached to make the long strap ended up in just the wrong spot on my husband's shoulder. Since I had to create a new pieced connection without taking the strap completely apart, I used a modified slip stitch to minimize the stitch visibility.

To give the two seams in the strap one more level of strength, I stitched a line of herringbone over each seam.

Once done with the bag, my husband attached three leather award badges using the same linen thread. He punched holes in the badge with his awl first, then used the awl again to sew them on.

What I think of it:
I'm very happy with the bag and the level of craftsmanship I was able to put into it. I'm also jazzed that this is the most authentic piece I've yet to create and it turned out so well! It didn't go together quite the way my husband was expecting, so we did have a bit of a hiccup with him actually liking it at first, but after correcting the strap and explaining my reasons for constructing it the way I did, he liked it much better. In retrospect, I should have taken my time before cutting it out. It would have been better to cut the flap as part of the back to avoid a seam there. In general, however, I think it's a quality piece, and I look forward to seeing my husband sporting it at events!

You can see all the photos from this project in the Flickr set, or on Facebook!

Monday, April 1, 2013

In Progress: Canvas Pilgrim Bag

When I first started in the SCA, I did the same thing most newbies do- I tried cramming everything I needed for the day into a dinky leather pouch that originated from a Renaissance Faire. It sufficed, but it did kind of suck as a catch all for a day at an event. When I got to be a little more active, I traded my pouch for a basket, which I liked so much better.

I've had many baskets since then, some I liked better than others, but they all have the same flaws. The first is their fragility (and awkward handle). I did have one sturdy basket with a hinged handle, but even that beauty was no match for the crushing effects of event gear shoved haphazardly into a car at the end of a long day. Once a basket starts to go, it's pretty much over. 

I have gotten lucky with the basket I currently use. I think it's lasted this long because it got misplaced for a long time. It's the one in the photo above, which was taken back in the spring of 2008. It's not a period basket, though, and has a very Easter basket feel to it. Which brings me to the second flaw of baskets.

Small, toting-around baskets don't really take the place of a bag. For starters, they usually don't have lids. I do have a tall, narrow basket with a lid and hinged handle, but it's kind of a weird shape, and feels kind of weird to carry around. It makes me think of my great-aunt Eupha, who was a pretty odd cookie.

Most baskets that are small enough to carry around at an event are typically not also ideally sized to carry an embroidery frame, a sewing box, a camera, etc. without something inevitably falling out. With no lid, the basket contents are kind of on display as well. It's not that I'm not usually afraid someone will swipe my keys, it's that shopper cards and key chains aren't particularly period. And the embroidery frame isn't really designed to be a lid.

I had thought for a long time that I may want a pilgrim bag- the medieval equivalent of a cross-body messenger bag. I'm a bag person in the mundane world, and I enjoy making them, so it kind of makes sense that a pilgrim bag would be on my wish list. I just never really stopped to think about actually making one, until my awkward basket actually made me feel awkward at a recent event. My embroidery frame fell out and clattered on the floor in front of a large crowd of people, simply because I had stepped forward and the frame (which was just sittng on the top of the basket) was interested in following Newton's laws.

At that moment, I decided it was time to retire the baskets. A shoulder bag, which would leave my arms and hands both free, actually just makes more sense for me, especially when I'm trying to wrangle my kids.
In the process of figuring out what I wanted the bag to look like, my husband expressed his interest in also having a pilgrim bag. I ordered some 12.5oz hemp sheeting from Wm. Booth Draper for mine, and some 16oz Russia drab for my husband's. The 12oz is a bit too soft and light on its own, so I also pulled out a piece of off-white linen (probably linen/cotton) with a stripe design in the weave to use as a lining.

Sorry for how dark this is. 16 oz. drab on the bottom, hemp sheeting in the middle, off-white linen on the top.
I started with my husband's bag, since it would involve fewer steps. It would also give me the chance to work out any kinks in technique before doing mine (since he's not a picky about those sorts of things- as long as it works as intended.)

The main bag piece is 30" by 18" (plus .75" seam allowance), folded in half, so that the main bag is 18" wide by 15" tall with no bottom seam. This is pretty big, but it's mostly proportional to my husband's size, and he requested something large.

I also cut the flap piece at 10" by 12" (plus allowance), and a piece to sew in as an interior pocket (sorry- didn't measure it). 

I'm using a hand-spun white linen thread to hand sew the whole bag (manually waxed with beeswax). First, I finished three edges of the flap, leaving one of the long edges raw. Then I sewed the seam allowance on both long edges of the main bag so that I could do the Elizabethan Seam technique that Wenny introduced me to.

Next, I whip stitched the finished edges on the main bag together, to get the main "sack" shape.

I really like the look and strength of the finished seam. I let my husband tug at it, and it held very well.

I wanted the bag to have a more defined shape, so I employed a bag-making technique that I love- boxy corners. I have no idea if this is a period method, but it is an effective method of giving a bag shape without having to add pieces.

It's a pretty easy method to do, but not that easy to describe. The seam in the photo above is a side seam. My thumb is holding the bottom of the seam at the fold. The fold line is centered on the seam (underneath what you can see). The two layers are pinned together. A seam cuts across perpendicular to the seam, defining a triangle at the corner. Here's the fold side after the back stitch is complete:

If this was a modern bag, I would cut that triangle off, leaving enough to finish the seam. In this case, though, I want there to be as much strength in the bag as possible to stand up to my husband's roughness, so I folded the triangles down on the inside, and tacked them to the bottom, giving the bottom corners some reinforcement.

Turned right side out, the bottom corner looks like this:

Since the flap was already finished, I just needed to slip the raw edge into the hem around the top. That wasn't the way I originally thought I would do it, but I was concerned about the flap being long enough, and this insertion didn't take too much away.

With the top hemmed, the bag is looking really good:

I still have that piece that I want to put in as a pocket, as well as the strap to attach. I've prepared the pocket by finishing all four edges. After piecing the strap together, I had a piece roughly 6" wide by 60" long. I folded it in half, sewed it into a tube, inverted it, flattened it so that the seam was centered along the underside, then did running stitches along both edges to keep everything in place.

That's my progress so far. Next, I'll get the pocket and strap in place, then do a reinforcement piece on the center portion of the strap (like a shoulder pad).

I'm really enjoying the variety of hand-stitches this is using, but hand sewing the heavy canvas is pretty tough on the hands. The results are worth it, though, since the white stitches are visible.

For now, though, my hands need a break.