Sunday, April 11, 2010

German-ish Outfit Complete!

I had a mad dash Friday night to try to get everything ready for the event on Saturday, but my German-ish outfit was completed and looked awesome!

I did not have to adjust my rust colored linen dress, like I thought I would. All I did was wear my fitted underdress. That put everything in the right place, which is amazing when you realize that I didn't originally cut the rust dress to be worn over the fitted dress. You can see that it's a bit tight over the top of my baby belly, where I'm currently the largest, but it didn't feel tight while I wore it.

I ended up using my prototype wulsthaube and rectangular linen veil, mainly because I ran out of week to work on the real thing. I primarily used Herrin Emeludt Hänsler's method by using a triangular kerchief and pinning the end corner to the padded roll. I had also sewn a cap piece onto the roll, similar to Myra's, but it's too curved at the front. It basically helped me keep the roll in the donut shape, though. Really, it's the veil that kept everything in place. I had to take the whole thing off and readjust at some point in the middle of the day because gravity had started to work against me and the whole thing was slipping off the back of my head. Once I redid all the parts much tighter that I had originally done, everything stayed in place. You can see in the photos above that I just knotted the veil together at the base of my neck. I think the roll is too small- it doesn't stick up high enough when you look at me straight on. Overall, though, I think my prototype worked out well.

Of course I also wore my new goller. It was very comfortable. I did notice, however, that it doesn't quite fit right. I think the original pattern worked for the original goller because I did such a crappy job putting the frog clap on that the large gap at the opening compensated for the incorrect fit. Now that the gap is remedied, the poor incorrect fit is more apparent. I'm probably the only one to notice, though.

We kind of had a matching outfit thing going on as a family. Not exactly matching, but we all clearly belong to each other. The yellow is exactly the same on all three of us. Dearg and I are in the planning stages for some new garb for him, he's been wearing this particular outfit to every event since we went to Michigan last year. He's doing early 11th century Irish Norse, and his persona just converted to Christianity. The issue we have now is that we need to be looking less at Viking garb and more at Irish garb, of which there is little to find. He is not portraying a "Celt", as we often see them in the SCA, but rather a middle class norseman who happens to have an Irish mother. He's not a raider, which also makes pinpointing his garb needs a bit difficult.

Since I don't plan on making too much more garb for myself this summer, most of my projects will be for him. We need to stock up on more fabric, though.

I was also able to put together Owen's new cotehardie Friday night. It was actually pretty easy. There's no side seams (I just cut the arm holes along the folds). It fits him really well, and I (finally) got it long enough. This is the perfect style for him, since he's got that long torso. And the red tights really made the outfit. I think I made it large enough that it should still fit in May for Coronation, but I can add gores if I need to.

Mom also looked splendid. She didn't plan on it, but she had a Lutrell Psalter look going on. I gave her my smocked apron, since it's more appropriate for 14th century than 15th. She wore her 14th century open hood and St. Birgitta's coif, and the outfit was complete!

Up next? Relaxing.

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Update: Goller Finished!

The new goller is now complete. It needs a little breaking in (and I need to iron it), but it's a vast improvement over the old one. It looks and feels very luxurious, and when you consider that it's made of 100% wool, 100% linen and 100% silk thread, it has every right to be!

So here's how I did it:

1. I took the old goller apart and used it for the pattern. I originally came to the pattern I had by using a large piece of newspaper wrapped over my shoulders then cut to fit. Basically, it's the bottom of a hood.
2. I cut two of each fabric. I don't have an iron, an you can clearly see how badly the linen needed to be ironed before I did this, but after the fact will have to do.

3. I sewed the two halves of each fabric together down the back seam using a simple running stitch. Then I went the extra step to finish the seams so that I could get a nice finished look on the exterior when it was complete. It occurred to me after I finished this step that I didn't actually need to turn the seam allowance under, though.
4. Then I married the wool and linen together, right sides in. I used the running stitch here again, but didn't finish the seams.

5. After sewing the two fabrics together, I turned the whole thing right side out, then did a running stitch down the center seam to keep the two fabrics together at this point.
6. Then I closed the hole where I turned it right side out.

7. To keep the edges straight (not sagging or uneven), I did a running stitch around the entire perimeter.
8. I used the linen to create 4 buttons. they are only about 3/8" in diameter. These aren't very pretty (I don't make fabric buttons too often), but they work.

9. I marked with pins where I wanted the four buttons and loops to go. They are a thumb's width apart.
10. Then I sewed on the buttons.

11. On the other side, I attached a fingerloop braided cord (using the embroidery floss I picked up today). I haven't seen this method used before, but it's an elegant solution to a problem I always have with loops- they slide out of my stitching. This is stitched done along the entire length (except a the loops), mostly by going through the cord rather than around it.
12. The finished goller!

I'm going to leave you with that teaser. I'd rather wait to show how it looks on me until I'm wearing it for real with the whole outfit on Saturday.

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Update: Goller Almost Complete

I had planned on finishing the goller tonight, but I couldn't find my dark brown embroidery floss to make the loops for the buttons. That's all that's left, so it's really frustrating to have to put the goller down, unfinished, for one more night. I'll stop at the store and pick up the floss tomorrow, though. Then I can move on to the next item. I think I'll do the sleeves next. They'll be pretty easy, and will leave me the rest of the week to complete the wulsthaube before Saturday.

Sunday, April 4, 2010

German Outfit Update

So far I have:
  1. Done all the major sewing on the new goller (above). I'm hand sewing it, and since the wool is a dense flannel, it's not a fast process. All that is left is to whip stitch the opening (where I turned it right-side out), then to stitch all along the outside edge to straighten it up. Oh, and to add the frog clasp.
  2. Decided to use the gold linen for the sleeves. Since the goller has two shades of brown, the third shade of the brown I could have used was too much variation. I'm still not sold on the gold, but I wanted them anyway, and it will be better than the brown.
  3. Created a working prototype of the wulsthaube (above) using some scrap cotton. I've got a few issues to fix before I do it in linen, but if push comes to shove, this will suffice. I've got to do some fitting adjustments, mainly. I also need to make the roll longer. If I don't get the sheer veil done, my old rectangular veil will work (that's what I'm wearing above).

So far, so good!

P.S. Here's a thought: if I do fabric buttons and loops along the two sides of the opening, the goller will be completely reversable. Hmmmm.

In Progress: German-ish Outfit

I made a last minute decision yesterday morning that I would do a German-inspired outfit for Unicorn, based mainly on the fact that I had all the materials on hand to pull it off.

The first element is my rust colored fitted dress, which I first wore a year ago:

I love the color, but it didn't turn out as fitted as I'd hoped. It is only one layer of linen/rayon, which is part of it's failure. The other part is that I hadn't been wearing it with my fitted underdress. So the first order of business for this dress is to try it on with my underdress and do some tailoring to get the fit corrected.

The second element is my goller. You may remember that I started wearing a very makeshift goller back in December of 2008:

(Isn't he so tiny?!) I decided that I wanted one after seeing Myra's, but I hadn't really been very serious about it until I decided the day before the event that I wanted it. I purchased some tan felt (not even clothing grade), faux gray fur, and a frog clasp, then whipped the whole thing together at the 11th hour. I did a very bad hand sewing job (I didn't have a sewing machine yet), and I completely misplaced the frog clasp. I always told myself that I would redo it, but I put it off. I've been wearing it ever since (I even wore it last weekend) because it's functional, and better than a full cloak. My mom had given me some wool for a new one, but the black she gave me ended up being my open hood. I still had the brown, however, and finally convinced myself that I could use that and the brown linen I had to try the goller again. I'll be re-using the frog clasp, cutting up the old one for the pattern. Plus, the wool/linen combo will be worlds better than the polyester felt and faux fur.

The third element will be a wulsthaube. This is a completely new item that's been in my project pile for a long time now. I think I was putting it off initially because I didn't think I had the right materials, then because I wasn't doing German. But I've got the linen that I need (including a very lightweight linen for the steuchlein), so I think it's time to give it a go. I've looked at a few construction methods online, and I think I'll end up with a hodge-podge mix of them, since they all kind of make sense. Luckily, my recent antenna veil headband form has really helped give me a better understanding of these sorts of shaped headdresses and the best ways to keep them in place.

The fourth and final element will be a new pair of false sleeves. The rust dress is short sleeved, and so is my underdress, so I'll need the sleeves for the outdoor event. I have a gold linen/rayon that I had already decided was going to be sleeves, but I'm not yet sold on the way that will look with the rust. I have brown as well, though, which would work.

Hopefully I continue to feel this spunky all week, so that I can also complete a new outfit for Owen. I want to use the brown and gold linen I just mentioned to create a counterchanged cotehardie for him. He's got the perfect long torso for it. I also have a cotton fabric, with an odd floral/paisley kind of pattern on it, that I never really had plans for. I'm going to make a little hood out of it, lined in some off-white linen-look I have kicking around. The colors will match the brown and gold (as well as my rust dress). Some people think it's silly to make fancy garb for young children, but I personally find it fun. He uses very little fabric, and I get to make male garb in periods I wouldn't otherwise have the opportunity to. Plus, he always gets compliments on his outfits.

So, expect a bunch of posts from me this week as I share my progress on all this!